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The Lone Sentinel of the Sea: A Journey to Kanhoji Angre Island

Mumbai is a city that looks at the sea every day, but very few people ever venture deep into the blue to visit its offshore secrets. If you stand at the Gateway of India and look far into the horizon, past the anchored ships and the local ferries, there is a tiny speck of land that holds centuries of naval history. This is Kanhoji Angre Island, also known as Khanderi Island. It is a place of rugged rocks, a lonely lighthouse, and the echoes of a legendary Maratha Admiral.

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1. Introduction & Location Overview

Kanhoji Angre Island is a small rocky island located off the coast of Thal, near Alibaug, in the Arabian Sea. It is situated about 20 kilometers south of Mumbai. While it is technically closer to the Alibaug coastline, it has always been a vital part of Mumbai’s maritime defense system.

This island is a true hidden gem because, until recently, it was restricted and mostly used by the Indian Navy and the Directorate General of Lighthouses and Lightships. It is now open to the public, offering a rare chance to stand on an island that has witnessed some of the greatest naval battles in Indian history.

2. Why This Place Is a Hidden Gem

What makes this island a hidden gem is its absolute isolation. Unlike the crowded Elephanta Caves, which are also on an island, kanhoji angre island receives very few visitors. It is a place where you can experience the raw power of the ocean without any of the city’s noise.

Most tourists miss it because it requires a bit of planning—you can’t just hop on a ferry every ten minutes. Locals love it because it represents the bravery of the Maratha Navy. It is one of the few places where you can see a 150-year-old lighthouse that still guides giant cargo ships into the Mumbai harbor today.

3. History & Background of the Place

The island is named after Kanhoji Angre, the famous Admiral of the Maratha Navy who was never defeated by European powers. In 1679, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj ordered the fortification of this island (then known as Khanderi) to keep an eye on the British in Mumbai and the Siddis of Janjira.

For years, the British tried to capture this tiny rock, but the Maratha forces held their ground. Later, during the British Raj in 1867, a massive lighthouse was built on the island to prevent shipwrecks on the dangerous rocky coast. Over time, the fort walls crumbled, but the lighthouse remained, becoming a silent guardian of the sea.

4. What Makes This Place Special

Visiting this island is like stepping into a different world. It is small, rugged, and surrounded by crashing waves.

  • The Lighthouse: The 22-meter tall octagonal tower is a masterpiece. You can climb to the top and see the 360-degree view of the Arabian Sea.
  • Ancient Cannons: You can still see iron cannons lying on the island, some pointing toward the sea as if still waiting for an enemy ship.
  • Architecture: The mix of Maratha stone fortifications and British colonial lighthouse architecture is very unique.
  • Photography Value: The rusty cannons, the white lighthouse, and the deep blue sea provide a dramatic background for any photographer.
5. How to Reach This Hidden Gem

Wondering how to reach Kanhoji Angre island? It is an adventure that starts with a boat ride:

  • From Mumbai (Gateway of India): Take a ferry from the Gateway of India to Mandwa Jetty. From Mandwa, take a bus or rickshaw to Alibaug, and then head to Thal Beach.
  • The Final Boat Leg: From Thal Beach, you have to hire a local fisherman’s boat or a specialized ferry to take you to the island. The boat ride from the shore to the island takes about 20–30 minutes, depending on the tide.
  • By Road: You can drive from Mumbai to Alibaug (about 3–4 hours) and then proceed to Thal.
  • Walking Directions: Once you land on the island’s small jetty, there is a paved path that leads up to the lighthouse.
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6. Entry Fees, Timings & Permissions
  • Entry Fee: There is a nominal fee to enter the lighthouse area (usually around ₹20-₹50). Boat charges are separate and must be negotiated with local operators at Thal.
  • Timings: The island is generally accessible from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. It is strictly prohibited to stay on the island overnight unless you have special permission from the Port Trust or the Navy.
  • Permissions: You may need to register your name at the local police chowki at Thal Beach before heading out, as it is a sensitive maritime area.
7. Best Time to Visit
  • October to May: This is the only time the sea is calm enough for small boats to reach the island.
  • Best Time of Day: Morning is best. The sea is usually calmer in the first half of the day, making the boat ride smoother.
  • Monsoon Warning: The island is closed to tourists from June to September. The sea becomes extremely rough, and no boats are allowed to ply.
8. Things to See at This Hidden Gem
  • The Main Lighthouse: The giant lens and the clockwork mechanism inside are fascinating.
  • The Fort Ruins: Walk along the perimeter to see the ancient stone walls that once defied the British Navy.
  • The Vetala Temple: A small, local temple on the island where fishermen offer prayers before going out to sea.
  • The Shoreline: The rocks around the island are filled with tide pools where you can see small crabs and sea creatures during low tide.
9. Things to Do Near This Hidden Gem
  • Thal Beach: A very quiet, clean beach with black sand that is much less crowded than Alibaug.
  • Kihim Beach: Famous for its butterflies and coconut trees, located just a short drive from Thal.
  • Alibaug Fort (Kulaba Fort): Another sea fort that you can walk to during low tide, located in Alibaug town.
  • Local Seafood: Thal village has some amazing “Khanaval” (local eateries) where you can get authentic fish thalis.
10. Local Experience & Atmosphere

The atmosphere on Kanhoji Angre Island is one of “grand loneliness.” You feel the spray of the salt water on your face and the heavy wind that never stops blowing. There are no shops, no cars, and no crowds. It is just you, the lighthouse keepers, and the vast ocean. It feels like being at the edge of the world. For a Mumbai local, this silence is the ultimate luxury.

11. Safety Risks & Things to Be Careful About
  • The Boat Ride: Since you often use small local boats, the ride can be “choppy.” If you get seasick, take medicine beforehand.
  • Slippery Rocks: The landing area at the island can be very slippery due to moss and seaweed. Be extremely careful when stepping off the boat.
  • Sharp Sun: There is almost no shade on the island except inside the lighthouse. The sun reflects off the water and can cause severe sunburn.
  • Limited Facilities: There are no toilets or shops on the island. Plan accordingly.
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12. Safety Precautions
  • Life Jackets: Never get on the boat to the island without a life jacket. Ensure the boatman has them available.
  • Solo Travelers: It is better to go in a small group, as hiring a boat alone can be very expensive.
  • Check the Weather: If the boatman says the sea is too rough, listen to him. They know the water better than anyone.
13. Things to Carry Before Visiting
  • Water and Food: You must carry your own water and snacks. There is nothing to buy on the island.
  • Sunscreen and Hat: Essential to protect yourself from the harsh sea sun.
  • Sturdy Sandals: Wear footwear with a very good grip for the rocky landing.
  • Binoculars: To see the Mumbai skyline and the massive ships passing by in the distance.
14. Travel Tips (Local Secrets)
  • Negotiate the Boat: If you go to Thal Beach in a group of 5-6 people, you can get a much better price for a private boat.
  • Talk to the Lighthouse Keeper: These men live on the island for weeks at a time. They have incredible stories about storms and the history of the light.
  • The “Magic” View: Look toward the north on a clear day; you can actually see the skyscrapers of South Mumbai appearing like a mirage over the water.
  • Keep it Clean: This is a zero-waste zone. Whatever you take to the island, make sure you bring the trash back to the mainland.

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